Cheering on cauliflower
Started the week or rather ended the weekend with cauliflower cheese. I think I’m going to start a one women revival of this unloved veg – even Rose Prince, whose view I value highly, was having a pop at it in the paper this weekend. I love it and following a sunny spring walk in Osterley on Saturday, we picked up a beautiful creamy head of cauliflower and some home grown rhubarb in the estate farm shop. The rhubarb went into crumble yesterday and the cauliflower into cauliflower cheese this evening. Just undercooking it I think is the key to this, so there is still a little texture, but it leads into creaminess when it meets cheesy sauce. Just lovely.
The butcher played his part in the rest of the food we feasted on this weekend. They were my source for a blade of pork for lunch yesterday. This is a shoulder joint with the blade bone still in, allowing it to slowly roast in the oven, while I went to aqua and hubby gardened. The big advantage of a pork joint from the butcher’s is the crackling – the meat has been hung up rather than wrapped up, so the skin in is dryer and that makes for better crackling – crunchy with a layer of fat underneath – I know deadly, but I can think of worse ways to eat fat – greasy burger / Indian take away anyone? Creating this crackling is almost impossible with a joint that has been sitting in plastic in a supermarket fridge. It does raise the ongoing dilemma though. My local (well localish) butchers is very work-a-day, so no organically reared pork here – his local customers just won’t pay for it. He does have English pork though. So do I support a local butcher and the English pig farmers or organic pig farming generally? I try and get a balance of both, that works for me, my conscience and my palate.
Anyway, on Friday the butcher also had venison, guinea fowl, and duck legs – what was going on? This is very unusual fare for them – getting a free range chicken is an occasional delight. What’s with the venison haunch? Well, they have started to supply TVU and the catering courses are using more ‘trendy’ (the butcher’s word, not mine) ingredients and the services of some well known chefs, so these products are beginning to show up on their counter. Great news for me! Especially as on Friday morning as hubby left for work he let out a pitiful ‘don’t know what I’m going to do for supper tonight’ accompanied by a hang dog expression. It was his turn you see. But how can I resist helping him out? And a guinea fowl at the butchers was just the answer. We were going to have a spit roast chick from Waitrose, which would probably have been one from Tesco, as hubby’s route home is changing – and I really couldn’t bear that either. It’s no great hardship to pop a chicken in the oven and roast it myself – so one guinea fowl for me.
As it was I spatchcocked it and put it in a piri-piri marinade – chilli, lime, cumin, ginger and coriander and a quick roast – 45 mins at 200. Oven chips and salad – delicious Friday night fare! We gobbled it all up. You can see why we had cauli tonight!
We did have fish on Saturday too, so it’s not been a complete meat feast. Hubby did sea bream with Thai spicing a la Nigel Slater. Served it with fried potatoes – not sure that worked. Ah well.
Sunday, sunshine and sea bream
Sitting in the sunshine on the bench at the back of the garden, with a cup of tea and a couple of cookery books – Rose Prince and Hugh, were the choice today. Some say that a good life is one lived by a series of simple pleasures, well this morning that was a simple pleasure of mine to add to a life well lived.
Once again food is on my mind. I’ve got from friends staying over in the week soon, so have been thinking about what to cook for us that makes a nice after work supper. Plus they have some lovely fresh sea bream on the counter at Sainsbury’s the other day. So tried out a Jamie 30 minute meal last night that may fit the bill for both – sea bream and tasty after work supper. Crispy sea bream (his version was sea bass) with sweet potato mash and Asian greens, with a berry ice-cream to follow. So what I love about Jamie is his twist and re-think on standard suppers e.g. cooking sweet potatoes in the microwave quickly rather than slowly roasting in the oven. Both have their place, depending on what you want to achieve – a quick supper or a slow supper. So tried his way in the microwave last night – only problem is I moved the microwave into the garage last year. I just don’t use it very much and it was taking up valuable kitchen space – ahhh one day a big kitchen will be mine. So put Hubby on ‘runner’ microwave duty. They were a bit ‘mealy’ in places, next time I’ll cut then into smaller, more even chunks.
And the berry ice-cream was a breeze. What a great idea – whizzing up frozen berries, yoghurt and honey for instant ice-cream – fabulous. Will add a little more honey next time to sweeten it a bit more. Will definitely be making it again – maybe with some different fruit – Waitrose have some frozen mango I think – that would be lovely. Anyway supper was lovely and declared a hit by hubby, so I think it’s what I’ll be doing for the friends staying.
Got the sea bream fillets in the freezer and the bones for making fish stock in the fridge.
Roast lamb for lunch today – a leg for a change rather than our usual shoulder. So rather than a slow sticky roast we’ll be having a some pink lamb today. Hubby is downstairs now, stuffing it with anchovies, rosemary & garlic. Thinking about left over’s too – shepherd’s pie, pilaf, or just slices of cold roast lamb – in a sandwich maybe. Mmmm yummy.
Catching up
So much to catch up on. The very reason I started this blog was to remember and record the lovely food we eat and already this week I’m forgetting what we ate on Monday!
So, was away suddenly last week to visit my Mum in hospital and came back to a fridge almost bare. Where to start? Well the lovely H.G.Walters for course. We were into town for lunch, so took the opportunity to go into Walters and buy some meat. Got a super joint of belly pork for Sunday, couple of poussins with star anise – curious about those, some free range quail and an Otter Valley duck. We had these for Christmas and they were just delicious. At this point Hubby’s saying ‘don’t go mad.’ It’s a good caution, because that butchers to me is what a sweetie shop is to many others.
Cooked the pork belly on Sunday. Rubbed some cracked coriander & fennel seeds into the crackling, along with s&p. Sizzle at 220 for ½ hour and then 1 ½ hrs at 180. The house smelt gorgeous. Remains of the box veg that hubby hadn’t eaten during the week – steamed greens and orange / butter carrots. Then some delicious lemon roast potatoes from the new Telegraph chef who’s doing the Saturday cooking piece now. Having said I wasn’t sure about him I now realise that I have cooked or been inspired by two of his recipes in the last couple of weeks. Anyway the potatoes were simple and a lovely alternative to roast and because I’d made the rosemary & garlic that was supposed to be for the pork chops in the recipe I added it into the potatoes so they were really delicious with the roast pork.
Peel & wedge 2-3 potatoes, into roasting dish/ tray. Add in chopped lemon, capers, celery leaves – and in this case rosemary & garlic crushed with salt to a paste. Cover with baking paper. Into oven 180 for an hour.
Slow cooking lamb
Spiced up the shoulder of lamb yesterday to slow cook in the oven while we were out. A rub of cumin, coriander, fennel, cinnamon, rosemary a la Hugh. Then in to sizzle at 220 for 30 mins and then down to 140 for five hours. Next time note – a glass of water means a glass of water – not a tumbler – there was far too much liquid in the tray when it was finished. I know this with lamb, need to learn it.
So the bit I need to work out is slow cooking times for a shoulder of lamb. There are different starting points – the sizzle, the browning or into a very hot oven & turn down immediately. Then there are the different temperatures and times for the slow, melting magic to happen. Because it really is magic how that joint of lamb melts and transforms into a unctuous, savoury, scooping dish to savour.
So starting points aside, as they all have their merits and basically the same effect – starting to create a savoury crust and get the joint going – slow times & temperatures are what I want to make a note of, so that that I can time better the cooking against the Sunday activity – walking, aqua, movie – without having to work it out each time.
Yesterday Hugh suggested 120 for six hours, I worked on 140 for 5 hours, and Jamie’s 170 for 4 hours. So it seems a 20 degree per hour increase or decrease – after whatever sizzle method I use. That makes sense – and quite frankly at the lower temperatures a 1/2 hour here or there doesn’t seem too crucial.
Made some aromatic rice – cardoman, cinnamon and bay – and kale to go with.
The left over rice made lovely ‘raid the fridge’ lunch today with a cold chipolata chopped in, a couple of ‘please eat me up’ slices of salami , the best bits I could salvage from a tired avocado and some fresh – oh yes, there was something fresh – watercress. Seasoned and dressed with little lemon juice, olive oil and some chopped olives.
Tonight it’s ‘made on purpose’ leftover lamb. Going to try it this time as a warm salad with pearl barley & kale. And I’ll whiz up some beetroot hummus for lunch-box lamb pitas tomorrow. The beetroot is from some I cooked for the beetroot risotto on Saturday. ‘A bit one dimensional’ said hubby – and he was right. Not sure that this is going on the list of favourites, although beetroot, is definitely staying on the favourites list and hubby’s going to grow it again next year. Hurrah!